Day 48: Finisterre to Cabo Finisterre - 3.2KM

 I had a deliciously lazy day. I ate, snoozed, took a bath, ate ice cream, got a massage, and snoozed some more in my hotel room with a sea view. 

I planned to visit the lighthouse at sunset and was feeling a bit unenthusiastic about it. I didn’t know anyone to go with and it seemed more like a chore than a celebration. But I started following the yellow arrows and they led me past a restaurant where I saw two friends from earlier in the Camino who I hadn’t seen in about a month!  They introduced me to a new pilgrim, and we all started hiking up the hill toward the end.  On the way, we ran into someone I had met just a couple of days before from the United States.  We convinced her to turn back around and accompany us to the sunset. It was so nice to end my Camino this way:  with old friends and recent friends and brand new friends watching the sunset over the sea and the pink clouds stream by.

Day 47: Hospital to Finisterre - 26.5KM

 I walked to the sea and swam!

Day 46: Lámelas to Hospital - 17.3KM

Today was so much better than the past two days. Sunrise was beautiful. My walking day was short and sunny. I walked alone during the morning but met German Jana at breakfast and walked together for the rest of the day. 

I did laundry, showered, napped, and ate plenty of protein. I’m ready for a long walk and a short swim tomorrow.  Only 27km remain between me and the sea. So exciting!  I hope it feels like a joyful day tomorrow. I plan for an early start. I have no pressure at all to get there at any given time.  The Atlantic will be waiting for me. 

Day 45: Negreira to Lámelas - 21.7KM

 My body is tired.  I am trying to channel these two women I met earlier in my Camino who would pause outside of a town to enjoy arriving rather than rushing in.  I only have two days of walking left; I should savor them. Tomorrow is only 17km.  That will be the shortest day I have had since June 8. I’m looking forward to it. Now if only I could have some sun, too. Today was gray and misty. I still feel chilly from my arrival in Santiago several days ago after 9 hours of walking in the rain.

Today I found a walker who was my speed. Luis, aged 82, was a local Spaniard—not a pilgrim—who was following Lola the dog through his little town. He held an umbrella in one hand and a walking stick in the other.  We chatted for a while before I bid him goodbye.  It’s good to be able to speak Spanish with townspeople.

I’m staying in a tiny settlement. There are only a handful of pilgrims at the albergue. This is the final albergue I will be staying at.

Galicia continues to be green and beautiful.

Day 44: Santiago de Compostela to Negreira - 20.9KM

I nearly quit this morning as I was trudging out of Santiago, but a friend gave me a pep talk. I carried on. I could stop walking, but my ultimate goal was to make it to the sea, and I think I would be disappointed in myself if I didn’t do it. As Santiago fades into the distance, I dream of coming over that last rise and glimpsing the ocean.

There was a steady rain for most of the day. I walked by myself except for the last little bit during which I talked with Adrienne, a Virginian. We discussed being 44 and working in higher ed.

The walk was pretty.  I usually try to be present to people who pass me while walking, but I listened to music all day and sang to myself.

The Finisterre Camino feels quieter and more contemplative.  People often keep to themselves.  I arranged to have dinner with a pilgrim who I had met very early on who was on his way back from Finisterre and Muxía.  Another returning pilgrim joined us. For the two of them, that was their last night before arriving in Santiago the second time, so we discussed a lot of big picture ideas about our own experiences about what we have learned over the past several weeks.

I have three more days of walking until I reach the sea.

Day 43: Santiago de Compostela - a day of rest

My day of rest was long and tiring, full of reunions and goodbyes.  I feel a little bit like an overtired kid being taken away from a party.

I got to see Sheena and Owen arrive in Santiago, as well as the Brazilians.  

I attended mass with Adrie and saw the botofumiero in action, a giant incense burner that requires seven men to swing throughout the cathedral.  It was impressive.

I had lunch with Haley, her mom, and her Camino beau who were freshly back from walking to Finisterre.

I picked up my credencial for my walk to Finisterre.  It’s supposed to rain tomorrow and I’m feeling a little blah about the walk, but I know that once my feet start moving, I will be glad. I even bought an umbrella in the hopes that it will ward off the storm.

I said goodbye to heaps of others.  I’m grateful for the experience, but it is sad to see it end.

Lisa took a great picture of me this morning while the plaza in front of the church was empty. 

Off I go again tomorrow…

Day 42: Salceda to Santiago de Compostela - 28K

 I walked for over 9 hours in the pouring rain to arrive in Santiago de Compostela. I did it!  (But I’m not quite done…)

Day 41: Boente to Salceda - 19.3K

I walked alone in the rain all day today and hardly saw anyone I knew, aside from the stampede of high schoolers; I can’t seem to shake them no matter what I do. To be fair, they’ve gotten more integrated into Camino culture as the days have passed. And truly, what a great way to experience their country. 

I wrote a message to all the pilgrims on my WhatsApp, thanking them for playing my age game. Some of them, I’ll see tomorrow. Some of them I’ll never see you again. All of them have been important to me as a part of my journey.  What stupendous people.

I’m staying in a hotel room tonight. It’s quiet here.  I had a delicious salad by myself. It feels peaceful.

I’ve set myself up for a challenge on my final walk into Santiago:  28k.  And it looks like there will be a lot of rain, too. I communicated with my hotel so that I don’t have to worry about getting there at any particular time. I can take all day. I have a rest day on the day after arriving in Santiago, and for tomorrow, I just need to enjoy every step. And I plan to. Buen camino to me!

Day 40: Palas de Rei to Boente - 21K

 Days last so long here. It’s hard to believe that it was just this morning I was walking alone through lanes of green mossy trees and smelling the scent of eucalyptus from the trees.  It was a rambling sort of day today. Gentle ups and downs through little towns.  Lots of pretty hórreos (grain storage buildings). 

I had a couple of walking partners today—American Erin and later Spanish Canadian Piedad. We reflected on our Caminos and talked over the best—and hardest—moments. 

I had an unusual circumstance when I arrived at the albergue; I ended up trapped in an unfortunate conversation with people I didn’t like.  Fortunately, adorable Canadian Arista and her dad turned up to rescue me.  It’s truly amazing that it’s taken this long for me to find myself in a situation where the conversation and people were just no fun.  I’ve had flashes of that here and there.  But it’s so rare. 

Also rare is rain, though it looks as though it’s going to pour on me during my 28k walk into Santiago on Monday. Given how little I have walked in the rain so far, it’s silly to complain.   I’ve had wonderful weather overall.

 

Day 39: Portomarín to Palas de Rei - 24.3K

Today had the most rain, the longest distance, and the weakest legs of the whole Camino.

I got up and out early, but I got a little lost on the way out of town and ended up taking a slightly longer alternative trail.  This was the first morning that I can recall feeling like my legs were weak and not adequately recovered from the previous day’s walk. I’m really looking forward to getting to Santiago, partly because it means I’ll have a day of rest.  I think my body is exhausted.

A couple of folks tried to give me some energy and walk with me this morning, but it was futile. My legs just refused to feel peppy as we went up long hills in the drizzle. The rain wasn’t really that bad, but my lack of energy was.  

By the end of the day, I was feeling a little bit better and I’m not proud to admit that a part of me was joyous that the high school kids who were stepping so lively yesterday were dragging today

It was very green and pretty for much of the day. 

I ended the day with a massage to try to rejuvenate my legs. I hope to dance down the Camino tomorrow with my new legs and shorter day. I walked around town a little bit extra after dinner with Australians Clare and Linda and American Erin so that I could hit 50,000 steps.

The Camino is all abuzz with talk of when people will be arriving in Santiago.  Some of my friends from earlier in the Camino have already arrived. Some of us are going to be arriving the same day. It will be fun to reunite with people.  I’ll be walking in very late in the afternoon on Monday. I have a long 27k day to get there—my longest yet. I could have stayed 5k away and walked in with fresh legs, but I decided I wanted to arrive tired. And I certainly will!

Day 38: Sarrìa to Portomarín - 22.1K

 I slept in until 6:45 by accident and then had a slow breakfast, so I wasn’t out of town until about 8 and that coincided with the time when 50+ Spanish high achoolers were taking to the Camino. Sarria is the place where many people start the Camino and so it gets very crowded.  Walking the last 100 kilometers qualifies people to earn a Compostela, the certificate indicating you have done the pilgrimage. 

I was trying to remind myself that I want many people to have the experience of being on the Camino, but it is certainly hard to not be frustrated with the masses of new people who don’t follow the customs and norms of the Camino. 

It was exciting to reach the 100K countdown marker!

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I had a nice walk with Adri early on and then Linda a little bit later.  When I finally dragged myself into town at four, I put my legs up the wall and then collapsed into a nap.

Tomorrow will be both my longest walk and my rainiest walk. I’ve saved up some Harry Potter audiobooks for just this kind of special occasion.  I am trying not to resent the new people on the Camino. But it does make me look forward to my walk to Finisterre, which will be quieter.

I’ll be leaving very early tomorrow!

Day 37: Triacastela to Sarrìa - 18.2K

 Excellent weather to enjoy the green mountains and moss and fields of Galicia today.  I was the first pilgrim out of the albergue this morning for which I decided I deserved an award. I also gave myself an award for the walker who has logged the most number of hours to get to Santiago.  We’re all walking the same distance, but it takes me longer than anyone else on the trail.  I haven’t yet determined my prize, but I think a two month European vacation might qualify. 

I walked alone for most of the day, though I ended the day walking with lovely South African Australian Adri. We had sangria outside of town then teamed up to share a hotel room, which is so nice.  If I ever had grandchildren, I would recount to them the joys of our hot, clean, uncomplicated shower.  It’s a worthy tale. 

Busy afternoon visiting the dentist to get a crown put back in my head and the physical therapist to get my knee put back into place. I’m a new woman. The countdown to Santiago is on. I should be arriving on Monday!

Day 36: O Cebreiro to Triacastela - 21.2K + the K where I got lost

Sarah headed home. I carried on.  

Phenomenal sunrise over the mountains this morning, followed by a gorgeous up and down —then down down down.  I had been nervous about today because the last downhill was so miserable, but it was mostly a fine, sturdy path. The views were spectacular.  Mostly I walked alone today.  One hill was so steep that I’m pretty sure a treadmill doesn’t have the setting for that angle.

Unfortunately, my knee has started hurting just a bit. An enthusiastic Irish pilgrim named Ed explained that he was a sports therapist and gave me a brief and torturous deep tissue massage on my leg, which helped for a bit.  I’m trying to find a physiotherapist in the next town.

Bodies are judged differently here.  People aren’t generally concerned about how you look.  They care how you feel.  We talk about feet and body pain.  We make concerned faces and offer what tools we have to improve the situation.  The other day I presented British Julia with half a package of cough drops, and she was delighted.  Today I gave Spanish Piedra the rest of my cough medicine.  Later in the day she felt better. 

Lots of nice people in my day today, though I don’t have very good feelings about the pilgrims who were blocking the marker during their rest, causing me to get lost and walk an extra 1 km out of my way down the hill and then back up again.  I had a nice meal with a German woman named Millie and drinks with an Irish man named Michael and his son-in-law Dave.  

Day 35: Trabadelo to O Cebreiro - 18.6K

 Today was a big climb, uphill nearly the whole day. I was worried I would have to fortify myself with a stale tortilla and an even staler chocolate croissant, but I happened upon some magical place that had the most beautiful breakfast—a plate of cheese, a fresh omelette, a huge bowl of yogurt, honey, and granola. It was incredible.  It can be hard to locate yummy food on the Camino, but this was excellent and just what I needed. 

I walked a little bit again with Linda from Australia who I ran into at breakfast. We talked about 35. I am finally in the years of digital photographs and can remind myself of things that happened in a particular year. Most notably, I won an award at the Arlington County Fair that year for my entry in the theme category in mixed media:  glitter glue and googly eyes.  I also walked with Erin from Connecticut who bought her first house at 35. 

O Cebreiro is a gorgeous little stone village on the top of a mountain. It was worth the climb to get here. We went to a mass which concluded with a pilgrim blessing. I was moved when pilgrims read the blessing in their own languages:  Korean, Taiwanese, German, Dutch, Portuguese, Estonian, Spanish, English. Language and stories have felt sacred during my time on the Camino, and hearing the many voices reading the same text was stirring. 

Sarah leaves tomorrow, and I will be on my own again. 

Day 34: Cacabelos to Trabadelo - 18.2K

A beautiful walk today featuring vineyards and trees heavy with cherries. I walked this morning with Linda from Australia, who bought a seaside shack in her 34th year. 

I stopped for an extended period of time in Villafranca del Bierzo, then Sarah caught up with me so we could have a meandering walk in the afternoon.  It was a relaxing day in anticipation of a big climb tomorrow. 

Day 33: Ponferrada to Cacabelos - 15.7K

I was so grateful to have a short, easy day today.  It’s funny how 10 miles on the Camino can seem like an easy day, but the weather was so much milder than the past couple of days and the walking was through little towns and cherry trees that were ripe with fruit. Vineyards, too. After all that terrible downhill walking the past couple of days, it was even nice to be on sidewalks and the road.

I had some nice walking partners today.  American Megan and Irish Mari and Brian early on and then later Ukrainian Dima.

My memories of 33 include arriving in Finisterre on my birthday, meeting Scott, and campaigning for Obama in Iowa and other places.   

Day 32: Acebo to Ponferrada - 16K

More downward rocky steep mountainous slopes for the first part of today.  I really dislike the descents, but I only have one more big day of them left for the whole Camino. 

The day was hot, and I felt slow and walked mostly by myself, which was in some ways appropriate for day 32 since I did my first Camino at age 32. I didn’t do a good job of feeding myself yesterday, so I was struggling in the morning, but I spent all day catching up on calories:  orange, biscuits, chorizo and cheese bocadillo, cherries, nuts, piles of yogurt, fresh squeezed orange juices, gyoza, sushi, chocolate, tortilla de patatas, bread, pancakes. Fortunately, we’re in a city, so there is a variety of food. 

Looks like rain tomorrow for the first time in weeks. Fortunately we don’t have the climb up or down.  We’ll see how it goes!

Day 31: Rabanal del Camino to Acebo - 16.9K of beautiful torture

Sarah and I spent the morning walking with Jimmy the 76 year old Californian from Texas who was a kindergarten teacher for 20 years. At age 31, he was in Paris, admiring himself in the mirror and trying to get his scarf tied just right to fit in with the French. Note that he is still rocking the scarf. 

I could have happily talked to Jimmy for hours.  He’s utterly delightful, but after enjoying cake and singing him happy birthday in anticipation of the real day on Dec 1, we headed out on the rest of our big climb.  

We visited the Cruz de Ferro, an important place on the Camino, where pilgrims come and leave a rock that represents the burdens they are carrying and would like to leave behind.  I didn’t feel like a rock really represented how I was feeling on my Camino, so I decided to bring a piece of seaglass from another part of the world that gives me joy.  I’m not sure exactly where the source is, but I like thinking of it being washed up on the shores of the Camino.

Most of the rest of the day, I went down, down, down.  It was beautiful, but I was too busy staring at the ground and sweating and swearing to notice much.

This is the first day I have wanted to quit.  I was hot and the slippery downhill rocks required great care.  I eyed the taxi signs greedily, but I persisted and dragged myself (and my third blister!) into the town after 8 hours of walking.  At the end, there were nice people, gorgeous views, and plenty of laughter with a pack of Brazilian ladies.

My 31 was recovery from 30.  I remember how challenging it was to go back to work after being sick. I also remember a nice road trip to Florida to visit Beth. I stopped in Savannah and Charleston and drove to Key West.  

  

Day 30: Astorga to Rabanal del Camino - 20K

 Today was Sarah’s first day of walking!  It was hot and slightly uphill with many places to stop and rest and get a cool drink. 

Along the way, we met Bienvenido, an 89 year Spaniard sitting in front of his garden selling shells to adorn backpacks, as is the tradition here on the Camino. It was fortuitous because Sarah didn’t have a shell yet. 

We walked on and eventually fell into step with a slowly moving young man from Scotland named Adam. He had hurt his knee and was trying to take care of himself. We wandered in the hot sun together. Since he was only 20, he had to tell us about being 10 instead of 30. He got two dogs, played soccer, and learned the banjo.  

We met a man making wax stamps for pilgrim passports. He made one for me for Finisterre and put it as the last stamp.  Something to strive for!

I’ve been trying to slow down at the outside of a town to savor the experience instead of just dragging myself, exhausted, to find my lodging.  Adam, Sarah, and I stopped for a game of Santiagolf.

This evening we attended vespers and listened to the chanting monks. It was nice, but made me feel baffled by Catholicism.  

30 was the worst year of my life. My brain quit on me. The year did have bright spots, such as befriending M and having so many people love and support me.

Day 29: Astorga - another day of rest

Sarah and I spent the day lounging. We ate churros and chocolate. We wandered around the sizable market and selected vegetables to make a delicious salad since we had an apartment with a kitchen. We ate food that will not be available in small towns.  I tried to get my hair cut, but two different places just looked at my head pityingly and shook their heads as though there wasn’t a thing they could do to fix the mess atop my head.  We visited the cathedral.

I was a little sad because most of the pilgrims I know have moved ahead. But it will be great fun to have Sarah here for adventures.  

I don’t have another rest day planned until Santiago!

Not much remarkable happened during my 29th year that I could think of.  I guess some years are like that. 

Day 28: Astorga - a day of rest

 I left my albergue this morning and had lots of time before my apartment opened up. I ran into some younger pilgrims and had churros and chocolate with them.  Then I headed over to Sheena and Owen’s apartment where I relaxed until I could get into my accommodation where I took an unhurried hot shower and did laundry. Bliss, particularly after spending last night in an albergue with my head up against the feet of an Italian bike pilgrim. 

I picked Sarah up, and we had a yummy lunch, visiting with British John and Australian Michael, who I thought had quit due to injury. It’s amazing how people pop up when you least expect them to. 

Sarah and I celebrated Sheena’s birthday dinner with Owen and Audre in a beautiful restaurant in the shadow of the cathedral. 

At 28, I went to Guatemala to learn Spanish while living with a family, a vital experience that has shaped the rest of my life.  It feels like a sort of magic that I can communicate with people in a different language. It was my first time in the developing world and my reverse culture shock upon returning to the United States was FIERCE.

Another day of rest tomorrow before walking resumes. 

Day 27: Hospital de Orbigo to Astorga - 17

After staying up until 2:30 at the festival and getting up at 7:30, I was tired and dragging. I lost my voice from coughing and wasn’t feeling very enthusiastic while waiting in long line for my first coffee today.  I struck up a conversation with some people behind me to pass the time and asked them if they were old enough to play my game. But it turns out they were 22 and had just graduated from college. I asked them where and they said William and Mary!  I bought them breakfast and visited with them to talk about what they had been doing in school and what they were looking forward to doing after graduation. They had such interesting reflections and projects.  It was really fun to trade observations about how bad the showers are in Dupont Hall halfway across the world with people, half my age.  Here they are:

In the middle of a long stretch of Camino, there was this oasis of snacks and treats. It was incredible. All donation based. 

I walked with several other nice people today, including Alex, the construction worker/hypnotherapist from England and his girlfriend Alicia.  I ended the day with Tori the American who lives in Australia.  

Later in the day, I found cough drops in a sweets shop, and I yelped (hoarsely) with glee.

For me, 27 was when I first started international solo travel. Since I had a 9 month job with summers off, I went to an immersion program in the south of France and lived with a family.  It was definitely a formative experience. That was also the year of 9/11, so I reflected a bit on that. 

I have a little rest coming now as I’m in Astorga for three nights while Sarah comes and gets settled.  I’m excited to see her!