Day 48: Finisterre to Cabo Finisterre - 3.2KM

 I had a deliciously lazy day. I ate, snoozed, took a bath, ate ice cream, got a massage, and snoozed some more in my hotel room with a sea view. 

I planned to visit the lighthouse at sunset and was feeling a bit unenthusiastic about it. I didn’t know anyone to go with and it seemed more like a chore than a celebration. But I started following the yellow arrows and they led me past a restaurant where I saw two friends from earlier in the Camino who I hadn’t seen in about a month!  They introduced me to a new pilgrim, and we all started hiking up the hill toward the end.  On the way, we ran into someone I had met just a couple of days before from the United States.  We convinced her to turn back around and accompany us to the sunset. It was so nice to end my Camino this way:  with old friends and recent friends and brand new friends watching the sunset over the sea and the pink clouds stream by.

Day 47: Hospital to Finisterre - 26.5KM

 I walked to the sea and swam!

Day 46: Lámelas to Hospital - 17.3KM

Today was so much better than the past two days. Sunrise was beautiful. My walking day was short and sunny. I walked alone during the morning but met German Jana at breakfast and walked together for the rest of the day. 

I did laundry, showered, napped, and ate plenty of protein. I’m ready for a long walk and a short swim tomorrow.  Only 27km remain between me and the sea. So exciting!  I hope it feels like a joyful day tomorrow. I plan for an early start. I have no pressure at all to get there at any given time.  The Atlantic will be waiting for me. 

Day 45: Negreira to Lámelas - 21.7KM

 My body is tired.  I am trying to channel these two women I met earlier in my Camino who would pause outside of a town to enjoy arriving rather than rushing in.  I only have two days of walking left; I should savor them. Tomorrow is only 17km.  That will be the shortest day I have had since June 8. I’m looking forward to it. Now if only I could have some sun, too. Today was gray and misty. I still feel chilly from my arrival in Santiago several days ago after 9 hours of walking in the rain.

Today I found a walker who was my speed. Luis, aged 82, was a local Spaniard—not a pilgrim—who was following Lola the dog through his little town. He held an umbrella in one hand and a walking stick in the other.  We chatted for a while before I bid him goodbye.  It’s good to be able to speak Spanish with townspeople.

I’m staying in a tiny settlement. There are only a handful of pilgrims at the albergue. This is the final albergue I will be staying at.

Galicia continues to be green and beautiful.

Day 44: Santiago de Compostela to Negreira - 20.9KM

I nearly quit this morning as I was trudging out of Santiago, but a friend gave me a pep talk. I carried on. I could stop walking, but my ultimate goal was to make it to the sea, and I think I would be disappointed in myself if I didn’t do it. As Santiago fades into the distance, I dream of coming over that last rise and glimpsing the ocean.

There was a steady rain for most of the day. I walked by myself except for the last little bit during which I talked with Adrienne, a Virginian. We discussed being 44 and working in higher ed.

The walk was pretty.  I usually try to be present to people who pass me while walking, but I listened to music all day and sang to myself.

The Finisterre Camino feels quieter and more contemplative.  People often keep to themselves.  I arranged to have dinner with a pilgrim who I had met very early on who was on his way back from Finisterre and Muxía.  Another returning pilgrim joined us. For the two of them, that was their last night before arriving in Santiago the second time, so we discussed a lot of big picture ideas about our own experiences about what we have learned over the past several weeks.

I have three more days of walking until I reach the sea.

Day 43: Santiago de Compostela - a day of rest

My day of rest was long and tiring, full of reunions and goodbyes.  I feel a little bit like an overtired kid being taken away from a party.

I got to see Sheena and Owen arrive in Santiago, as well as the Brazilians.  

I attended mass with Adrie and saw the botofumiero in action, a giant incense burner that requires seven men to swing throughout the cathedral.  It was impressive.

I had lunch with Haley, her mom, and her Camino beau who were freshly back from walking to Finisterre.

I picked up my credencial for my walk to Finisterre.  It’s supposed to rain tomorrow and I’m feeling a little blah about the walk, but I know that once my feet start moving, I will be glad. I even bought an umbrella in the hopes that it will ward off the storm.

I said goodbye to heaps of others.  I’m grateful for the experience, but it is sad to see it end.

Lisa took a great picture of me this morning while the plaza in front of the church was empty. 

Off I go again tomorrow…

Day 42: Salceda to Santiago de Compostela - 28K

 I walked for over 9 hours in the pouring rain to arrive in Santiago de Compostela. I did it!  (But I’m not quite done…)

Day 41: Boente to Salceda - 19.3K

I walked alone in the rain all day today and hardly saw anyone I knew, aside from the stampede of high schoolers; I can’t seem to shake them no matter what I do. To be fair, they’ve gotten more integrated into Camino culture as the days have passed. And truly, what a great way to experience their country. 

I wrote a message to all the pilgrims on my WhatsApp, thanking them for playing my age game. Some of them, I’ll see tomorrow. Some of them I’ll never see you again. All of them have been important to me as a part of my journey.  What stupendous people.

I’m staying in a hotel room tonight. It’s quiet here.  I had a delicious salad by myself. It feels peaceful.

I’ve set myself up for a challenge on my final walk into Santiago:  28k.  And it looks like there will be a lot of rain, too. I communicated with my hotel so that I don’t have to worry about getting there at any particular time. I can take all day. I have a rest day on the day after arriving in Santiago, and for tomorrow, I just need to enjoy every step. And I plan to. Buen camino to me!

Day 40: Palas de Rei to Boente - 21K

 Days last so long here. It’s hard to believe that it was just this morning I was walking alone through lanes of green mossy trees and smelling the scent of eucalyptus from the trees.  It was a rambling sort of day today. Gentle ups and downs through little towns.  Lots of pretty hórreos (grain storage buildings). 

I had a couple of walking partners today—American Erin and later Spanish Canadian Piedad. We reflected on our Caminos and talked over the best—and hardest—moments. 

I had an unusual circumstance when I arrived at the albergue; I ended up trapped in an unfortunate conversation with people I didn’t like.  Fortunately, adorable Canadian Arista and her dad turned up to rescue me.  It’s truly amazing that it’s taken this long for me to find myself in a situation where the conversation and people were just no fun.  I’ve had flashes of that here and there.  But it’s so rare. 

Also rare is rain, though it looks as though it’s going to pour on me during my 28k walk into Santiago on Monday. Given how little I have walked in the rain so far, it’s silly to complain.   I’ve had wonderful weather overall.

 

Day 39: Portomarín to Palas de Rei - 24.3K

Today had the most rain, the longest distance, and the weakest legs of the whole Camino.

I got up and out early, but I got a little lost on the way out of town and ended up taking a slightly longer alternative trail.  This was the first morning that I can recall feeling like my legs were weak and not adequately recovered from the previous day’s walk. I’m really looking forward to getting to Santiago, partly because it means I’ll have a day of rest.  I think my body is exhausted.

A couple of folks tried to give me some energy and walk with me this morning, but it was futile. My legs just refused to feel peppy as we went up long hills in the drizzle. The rain wasn’t really that bad, but my lack of energy was.  

By the end of the day, I was feeling a little bit better and I’m not proud to admit that a part of me was joyous that the high school kids who were stepping so lively yesterday were dragging today

It was very green and pretty for much of the day. 

I ended the day with a massage to try to rejuvenate my legs. I hope to dance down the Camino tomorrow with my new legs and shorter day. I walked around town a little bit extra after dinner with Australians Clare and Linda and American Erin so that I could hit 50,000 steps.

The Camino is all abuzz with talk of when people will be arriving in Santiago.  Some of my friends from earlier in the Camino have already arrived. Some of us are going to be arriving the same day. It will be fun to reunite with people.  I’ll be walking in very late in the afternoon on Monday. I have a long 27k day to get there—my longest yet. I could have stayed 5k away and walked in with fresh legs, but I decided I wanted to arrive tired. And I certainly will!