Day 7: Viana to Logroño - 9.7K

When I had just started my morning walk, I heard several people behind me and I stopped to take a photograph in hopes that they would pass me by, but when I paused, four Israeli women in their 60s and 70s greeted me and told me they remembered me from earlier on the Camino and admired me. I asked what that meant, but they didn’t have a clear answer.  

We fell into step together and I was asking them about their seven-year-old selves.  I learned a little about what it was like to grow up in Israel. I told them that when I was 7, I had a teacher named Mrs. Schneider and she was pregnant and I found that fascinating.  I also told them about the time that Derek Hollowedel  barfed during story time. Of my entire seventh year that is one of the things that sticks with me.

We found a rock on the Camino that said BRING THEM HOME in reference to the hostages taken by Hamas.  They found another rock and inscribed BRING THEM HOME NOW with today’s date.

 Today is the day of remembrance in their country; it is called Yom HaZikaron and they stopped at a designated time to pay tribute.  I asked if I could join them.  One woman used her phone to stream a short speech (prayer?) in Hebrew and listen to a siren wail for a minute. We stood in the shade at the side of the Camino together.  I didn’t understand the words being spoken, but I was moved as my new pilgrim friends sobbed at the sound of the siren.

I walked with one of the women for awhile, and she described how hopeless she feels about her country.  She talked about media manipulation and how difficult it is to know what the truth is unless you have been a witness.  I listened to her.  We all parted with hugs and hopes to see each other again on the Camino.

Soon thereafter I had some coffee and read the newspaper in Spanish. I tried to pay attention to the bias in the coverage of the Middle East, even though it was in another language. That was a challenge.

I went to do a couple of errands. I bought one of three English books that was available in a snooty bookstore.  So it looks like I’m reading the Great Gatsby. Nothing like reading an all-American novel while traipsing across Spain. 

I ended up running into Australian Linda, who was glowing after purchasing a dress, an entirely impractical addition to her Camino wardrobe.  Her enthusiasm was infectious, and I soon found myself in a boutique down the street with a Spanish clerk fussing over me and selecting a dress for me, too.  It features birds!  I wore it later on for wine and pintxos with her and laughing Washington Stateonians Owen and Sheena, who presented me with an exciting birthday present of nail clippers!  Over dinner, I tried a no thank you helping of anchovies.  I was proud of myself.